You may have thought that California held the marked on custom rods and cars. We are about to prove you wrong! While visiting Monticristi we came across this work of art. Oh and BTW the hubs are free spinning. The wooden mirrors do indeed have glass in them. Grill, fenders, rims and interior are all hand carved wood.
One of the most surprising things of our day was stopping at the ship building yard in Manta. The handcrafted fishing yachts were being built and launched by local Ecuadorian builders. All the “fishing yachts” are hand built from the bottom keel up with no factory design, no expensive machinery, no expensive hand tools and all done with manual labor from skills past down from generations of local Ecuadorians. And, all this work is completed outside in the hot sun on the sandy beaches. No warehouses and for the most part no factory made assembled parts. If you’re a boat lover or not you have to be fascinated by the skill and workmanship displayed in building a fishing yacht of 30’ to 80’. All made with manual labor and with limited tools. Probably the most expensive tool is the chainsaw. A chainsaw is used to cut ALL the many different parts for the yacht. Then comes the ax and chisel followed by hammers and mallet. But I would bet the yachts being built here will far out last any of the yachts built back home. Once these fishing yachts are built they will be used in the fishing industry here in Manta which is a leader in the world for supplying fish and especially tuna. The yachts are built with products from Ecuador. Most of the wood comes from the forest around Esmeraldas on the Ecuador coast with the caulking coming from the husk fibers of the coconut shell used to wedge between the wooden hull planks. The wooden keel beam is one solid piece about 18” x 18” by 30’ up to 80’ notched out with a chainsaw for the hull supports, prop and rudder. Hull supports are naturally curved wood pieces handpicked for their curvatures and size rather than piecing different sized wood or wet bending the wood into a curved piece. All the planks are individually cut for the yacht. The caulking is made from the fibers of the outer coconut shell hand twisted to made a small rope like weave just prior to its use as caulking between the wooden planks. Every nail is hammered in by a worker followed by an individual with a mallet and tool to countersink each and every nail. Then the painting and/or staining is with brushes and rollers. No spray guns, etc. Seriously, I have been going to see the yachts being built about every other week to watch the progress to include launching which again is all manual labor except they do use a front end loader to pull and push the yacht from its sandy beach building berth to the edge of the ocean at dead low tide. Then they wait for Mother Nature to come in later in the day with high tide to float the yacht from its transporter into the Pacific Ocean to begin its place in the fleet of fishing yachts. AMAZING TO WATCH. Some yachts are covered by fiberglass. The yachts are framed in wood then covered with a 4 x 4 sheet of fiberglass and then covered with numerous layers of fiberglass cloth hand rolled with several layers over the entire yacht. The keel is still a 18″ x 18″ x 30′ to 80′ wood beam molded and sealed with fiberglass cloth. The complete yacht is hand rolled.
Today was the day we were most looking forward to, Montecristi and area. Juan, our taxi driver, met us at the front gate of MSJ at 9:30 am. We were very surprised of how young he looked standing next to a yellow taxi cab. At first hand shake we knew it was going to be an awesome day. Juan is 32 years old, has a son of 8 years old and a very beautiful wife Gaby, who is a stay at home Mom. They live with Juan’s parents, paying $200 a month rent. Juan’s father was a factory worker, the factory shut down and put his father out of work which was 3 years away from getting his pension. To get his pension he had to buy back 3 years of salary. His father now works part time as a taxi driver with Juan.
To explain more about the taxi industry in Ecuador which is huge, you have to be in a Co-op if you are not like Juan he had to pay $10K to be his own co-op, buy his own car and special taxi license. But still being in the co-op he still has to go to the meetings (I gather the same as being in a union) every month. It is very difficult work because he still has to market himself to get work. Yesterday he drove the 90 km to pick us up from Manta where he lives and then drive back past Manta to Montecristi where our tour actual started. I think all of you know Montecristi is where they make by hand the famous Panama hat. Yes Leo got one and you will see in the pictures looks really good on him he talked the owner of the shop down from $100 to $60 which is awesome.
He gave him a small wooden box (almost the size of a wine box) and showed Leo how to roll it up YIKES for the travel back home. From Montecristi Juan drove us to his house in Manta (met his son) and the area where he grew up, to ship building yards in San Mateo, past the beaches in Santa Marianita for a fantastic lunch at a beach restaurant, after lunch to San Lorenzo stopped to take pictures at the lighthouse, lookouts and the surf on the beaches. Last stop Pina where we bought fish from the fishermen. It was quite a day and all for $80 WOW!!!
Back home rest, shower and a beautiful night on the upper patio eating barbequed fish, fresh salad and Chilean wine.
It is Friday again, Veggie truck guys, ended walking about 4 km to catch the truck. No too much to buy today because we are gone for 4 days next week, cucumbers, tomatoes, pineapple, strawberries and plums.
I have also added pictures from our Manta trip (horrible for Leo – takes after Ellie bus sick ugh, no gravol didn’t help); Leo at the bus stop pretending he is the boss, me at the Manta sign and a guy selling liquid yogourt at the bus stop YIKES 32 degrees not sure if his wagon is really cold.
It has been hot and lazy days in Mirador San Jose, beach walking, swimming, talking lots of photos of birds, flowers, lizards and collecting shells for the front garden of our house Casa Isabella (check it out on the sarocoenterprises.com website). Have been itching to have some really good fish – too far to walk down the road, $35 for a car and driver too much and hitch hiking in our best interest, talked to the corner store owner and he has the best fresh shrimp and tuna steaks ever, a pound of each $7.00.
Finally nailed down two excursions to go on, this week Juan a highly recommended driver and tour guide will be taking us to Montecristi and Jipijapa. Montecristi is where the original Panama hats are made, not sure if we can afford the original but we will check it out. The following week we are staying at the Oceanic Gardens for 3 nights and doing four Machalilla tours:
Not too bad all for $488.00 this includes breakfasts, and lunches and a few other things. Since they don’t deal with credit cards, paypal and only wanted money to be transferred to a bank account, we opt not to deal with Western Union and requested to pay in cash which has to be paid the day before the tours, Leo is to meet someone at the Mirador San Jose gate with the cash and they will give us a receipt. Pretty strange……
People here have talked about walking down the beach to a fishing village quote unquote ‘they have the best hamburgers and pizza?????’, and it only takes a few hours to walk. We left at about 3:30 pm when it was not as hot and started walking at 5:30 no sign of anything, walked about another 15 minutes and came across a manmade huge rock pile going into the ocean. Decided it was not in our best interest to go through the ocean to get around, walked up the hill saw a huge lake with sewer pipes going into it and a very large what we assume a fish plant.
Walked to the top of the hill and did not see any fishing boats or village, now it is almost 6 pm, Leo made the wise decision to head back before it got dark. We headed back walking faster than we had going down for fear of getting caught in the dark, we had brought a flashlight with us. Of course everything looked different because the tide had changed to a low tide, saw which I thought was astonishing huge cement sewer system going into the Pacific (see pictures). Leo said not unusual for countries to be dumping their raw sewage into the Pacific????????
Three dogs followed us for a while and all that was going through mind was “they told us we did not need rabies shots”, YIKES.
We got back at about 7:15 very dark and went to the pub to have supper; delicious not sure what she called it, chicken in a sauce, rice and salad, 2 large beers for $19.00. Today my ankle and large toe is really sore, I guess from walking in the sand, icing and aleve is helping. My fitbit registered 15,528 steps not too bad for 2 old dudes.
Can hardly wait for Tuesday, taking the dreaded bus to Manta, need to get cash out of the bank, need wine, see if I can find After Bite or something similar and tape for my foot. Mosquitos have not been bad here but we are going into the rainforest, yes we will be wearing long pants, socks and long sleeves…….
One of the main things I came here for was the chance to see and photograph birds, plants and especially monkeys that I would never have the opportunity to see otherwise. Everything pointed towards not taking the chance on venturing into the Amazon Jungle. Zika, yellow fever, volcano warnings and the American dollar all made the idea rather ominous. I knew however that micro climates along the coast provided for pockets of jungle like environments where we could witness what I wanted. We will still get to Isle de la Plata and to the Machalilla forest but the one place I really wanted to go has posed problems.
Research brought me to Pacoche Lodge and Reserve. I knew of the Pacoche jungle but I had yet to hear of the reserve portion of it. It was a dream of Ana Cristina de la Torre who gave everything she had to develop the reserve and maintain it in a way that promoted sustainable tourism. I instantly felt a great amount of respect for her listening to her speaking to the international stage about the need for ecotourism and especially her way of providing a safe refuge for the residents of the reserve. The reserve is home to a couple of troops of Howler monkeys as well as capuchin monkeys. There are close to 300 species of birds.
We were booked to stay at the lodge and for guided tours of the reserve. Excited would have been an understatement. On the night before we were to go we received an email from Ana that she needed to postpone our visit because some monkeys had taken sick. That was pretty much all she said except that we had the choice of getting our deposit back or wait until we could be allowed in. We chose to wait.
Out came Google and research began. It turns out that there is a virus of some sort affecting the howler monkey population in the jungle. Scientists are working to find the cause but in the meantime some 33 individuals have died. Three of those were in the reserve. The tests are seeming to point towards an African snail that has been invading the tree tops. My assumption is that they would have smuggled themselves over in or on ships.
I was disappointed to not be able to visit them but I was more devastated than anything that they were going through that sort of turmoil from something totally not their fault. Knowing that primates are so much like us when it comes to loss and grieving I can only imagine how sad the troops must be.
Pacoche jungle (proper) has a population of about 600 Monkeys in about 10 troops and there are 2 troops of about 20 monkeys each in Ana’s reserve. They are an endangered species because of the loss of habitat and now an introduced virus may hurt their population even more. If it is a virus in the slime trail of the African snail that is causing the devastation then hopefully it can be reversed.
This is one of those events that will never get the attention it deserves. Much like the cove in Taiji or the shark fin trade or the cat and dog fur trade that is now popping up. Ana depends on donations and volunteers to provide the health and habitat control to keep the monkeys safe. I can only hope enough people step up to make sure her troops survive.
Links to info:
Pacoche Lodge and Reserve
Meet Ana of Pacoche Lodge
One of the things that keeps me up at nite
Report on plight of the Ecuador Howler Monkeys
Monkeys continue to die. The total is over 50 at this point and although the scientists have ruled out some of the more common virii like dengue, sika and yellow fever they haven’t come up with a definite cause. They have found that most of the deceased animals have intestinal leasions and that narrows it down to method of transmission.
They have set up medic tents in the jungle and with equipment to conduct autopsies as well as to treat sick and healthy animals.
Needless to say they are still banning any non medical staff from entering the jungle at Pacoche. Luckily , I guess for the tourist trade the endemic seems to be limited to this one area. To loose over 50 animals out of a dwindling population of only 600 is still devastating.
It has been a few days since I have written in the blog, be patient, nothing much as happened except that it seems to be getting hotter every day. At home we hear all winter long it is -10 feels like -20, here it is 30 degrees but really feels like 35 degrees. WOW that is hot, Leo of course loves the heat, I am doing a lot better than expected. I guess my main problem is when it is hot or I am stressed because of the lymphedema my legs really swell up, since there is no stress I am managing quit well. Between doubling up on the diuretics, OOPS don’t tell my doctor and new fashion, toe-less, pink and blue compression knee highs I purchased (No don’t wear them outside just in the house), I am able to keep the swelling under control.
Two nights ago Leo and I were watching a movie and all of sudden the whole building and couches we were sitting on were violently shaking. I guess it is right when they say ‘why didn’t you move’, we just looked at each didn’t move a muscle. It lasted about a minute, when everything calmed down we went outside checked the outside of the house and looked down the street could see no one and everything looked fine. It had not been our imagination because talking to the bike rental guy he felt it too and said it was milder than the last one they had a few months ago.
Tuesday we did the dreaded trip to Manta; I wanted to see the harbor and get a few needed items. At 8:50 am the flashing update sign in the bus said 30.8 degrees by the time we got to Manta it was 31.6 degrees. We should have known better than to go to harbour front, besides taking your life into your hands trying to cross the roads, I got sick and almost passed out from the heat. Taxi back to the Super Maxi, sat for about an hour with a bottle of cold water, I felt good enough to find a place to eat. I was fine eating rice cakes but Leo needed food. Tried a different restaurant Oh Mar, very expensive looking ie white table cloths on the tables and leather chairs, almost too prim and proper for two very hot tourists. Leo ordered a platter of rice, salad, shrimp and a fish filet, I ate some, Leo totally enjoyed himself first fish we have had here. Did our grocery shopping at Supper Maxi, a few things at the drug store (Yikes very expensive) and wine (cheapest $3.95 a bottle) at the Comisariato (another smaller grocery store) and back to the bus terminal. Getting much more confident with the taxis and where we are going. To make sure we are at the right bus terminal I just look for a hotel called Leo Hotel, and know that is the right place. I will be putting some pictures in the blog, look for one with an older gentleman with a yellow security vest, I called him the Boss, he was shouting to everyone and pointing which way to go and made himself very important.
Got an email late Tuesday night that our 2 day trip to Pacooche Lodge has been postponed because some of the monkeys are sick and a few have died and at this moment they have no idea why, we are very disappointed but of course very worried about the monkeys.
Construction is ongoing everyday not enough to interfere with us or anything else, except yesterday we came back from a beach walk. There were about 7 construction guys at our house erecting this 20 foot high tripod made out of bamboo tied off with ropes going up to the roof of the second story (where the third bedroom and bathroom are). Leo tried to find what they were doing and the response was Hola and everyone smiling and pointing up to the roof. We sent an email to the property managers and found out this morning that because of the heavy rains a month ago they are going around to all of the houses and fixing drain vents. OK by us we don’t have to pay for anything.
We have been looking at quite a few of the houses that are for sale on the project and the range of prices, no were are just fantasying, which is good and healthy just if we could handle the extra payment. No again not to move but as an income property we would come here about 3 months of the year and the rest rent out. I have put some pictures in the blog of some of the houses; the big white house with the blue canopy on the roof is going for $159,000 (I assume all in US$) 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and fully furnished, the very small one, 1 story with no roof top patio is going for $141,000, the other large white building with other buildings around it called the Yubarta complex is going for $215,000, 2 stories with an upper patio, hot tube beautifully furnished (this is a gated community on its own, with its own swimming pool) and then they are starting another resident complex not built check it out http://www.miradorsanjose.ca/project/las-palmeras-residencias/. The thought sounds great but we will see at the end of our 2 month stay here, whether this is for us and if we would just become renters.
Almost forgot till I looked at my pictures, Monday when we went swimming at the pool there was a guy there with goggles and ear plugs diving time and again in the pool, we just thought he was practicing. Till we saw the small scrub pad in his hands he was actually diving down and cleaning the sides and bottom of the pool by hand with this small scrub pad. SHEESH have the owners never thought of investing in a long handled contraption that I have seen our neighbor use in Almonte. These people will do anything to earn a bit of money in Ecuador, makes me think we have it pretty good in Canada and no right to complain.
The workers are making too much noise overhead so we are going to the beach and swim or just walk in the surf WOOHOO, will try and get some pictures
We have been here for just 2 weeks and I have formed more than a few “first impressions”. Simply said, I love the ocean, the weather, the food and the potential of the project.
One can easily see how the project will develop into a thriving self-sustainable community. Of the 1700 lots available on the site more than 1500 have been sold. Some buyers purchased more than one lot, either for breathing room or for return on investment. I am told approximately 100 houses have been built or in process. Many are simply waiting for the exchange to equalize somewhat. There are property management services, a restaurant and plans for a second, bicycle rentals, a grocery store and transportation services. There is also talk of other services like visiting doctors, vets and paraprofessionals. I see a sizable community of residents and visitors once it is full developed.
With the location of the project being a considerable distance from the two adjacent cities. Manta to the north and Puerto Caya to the south it makes it almost a chore to get around. We have been depending on buses to bring us to shopping in Manta. The bus trip is a full hour and is a challenge to endurance. The hours for the return trip being 3pm and if enough passengers 4 pm makes for a short day. If you wanted to stay in Manta longer you would need to get a taxi home at a cost of $25. Not terrible by most standards I know but it adds up. Renting a car is very expensive. They tell me here that owning a car is similar to the states except that the purchase of a car comes with basic insurance.
We are not a prejudiced couple but we have found that with a majority of residents here being French they tend to ignore you once we greet them in English. It is a shame because if you ignore my shortfall of being unilingual I know most of them can speak both. They seem to keep to themselves leaving the English speaking folks to do the same. We both miss out.
I was hoping more of the permanent residents would be more forthcoming on helping newbies learn the ropes and especially contacts for excursions. It is like pulling teeth and ultimately you end up stumbling through it on your own. Even the ones who proclaim to either be property managers or drivers are not as helpful as they should be. We are still struggling trying to hook up for excursions. I will admit we are not as forward as we should be but the impression that you are on your own here leaves a bit of a sour taste.
If I were to offer advice to both the community and the developers it would be to finish what you started. Put up either a virtual or real bulletin board where experienced residents can offer help or advice or where newbies can ask for help or questions. Put lounge chairs along the malecon so those who don’t have their own can sit and watch the sunset. I am sure that will all come at some point but there is really no reason to not be there now. Otherwise how do you attract people to stay.
Other than that we do love being here and don’t resent coming at all. A lot to weigh, however, when deciding to return or invest.
Finally got to witness a full sunset. Up until this night there had been clouds on the horizon and the sun would disappear behind them. The color of the clouds would be nice at sunset but we were waiting for the time when the sunset would sink into the ocean. What surprised us though was how few people religiously view the spectacle. On the beach there were only 3 other people and we saw only one or two on rooftops. Other places we have been that were on the ocean front the people all seemed to center their day around the sunset.
I have found that I actually can stop moving for a while and relax. A new experience for me.
Yesterday was a very quiet day inside, 35 degrees C, not sure if that was ‘the feels like’ or actual, but believe me it was hot; no one out not even at the pool. Sorry not trying to rub it because it is so cold at home. We had left over pizza as an appetizer and headed to the beach at about 5:30 in anticipation of a gorgeous sunset first one without clouds in 11 days. As you will see by the pictures it was spectacular to say the least. Stayed on the beach till the sun sank into the ocean, I was waiting for steam to emerge as it went under. WOW!!!!!!
We walked back to our house with big grins on our faces and very happy. Had a delicious supper on the upper patio; steak, potatoes and asparagus with our $3.50 Chilean wine. What more can anyone ask for a beautiful night spent with my best friend.
Today it is Valentines Day, we have never made a big to-do about this, and we don’t have to give elaborate gifts to show our love and appreciation of each other. Had breakfast, charged all our camera batteries and Leo is heading out to take pictures of the many gardens that are here in Mirador San Jose. I am reading, writing in the blog and taking it easy, my foot has been really sore so giving it a rest. I guess I should have known after 4 weeks of physio that it was worse than I thought or just the lymphedema thing that it takes a long time to heal. I will be all rested up tomorrow to do another trek to Manta, almost out of coffee YIKES (too expensive at the corner store), and a few other necessary things. Trying to persuade Leo to take the taxi or bus to Monticristi, since he lost his ball cap he needs a Panama hat (made there by hand). Will let you know the outcome……
